Potovalni vodič po Dubrovniku / Dubrovnik travel guide (Slo&Eng)

Dubrovnik , mesto, ki ima veliko več za ponuditi kot le ogled snemalnih lokacij popularne serije Game of Thrones. Jaz si ga iskreno nis...



Dubrovnik, mesto, ki ima veliko več za ponuditi kot le ogled snemalnih lokacij popularne serije Game of Thrones. Jaz si ga iskreno nisem tako zelo želela obiskati, ker so me vsi "strašili", da je preveč turistično in da so cene vrtoglave. In ja, oboje drži, pa vendar sem mnenja, da bi si moral Dubrovnik ogledati prav vsak, ki ga navdušujejo obmorska mesta in bogata zgodovina.

Ta vodič sem pripravila z namenom, da vam olajšam planiranje ogledov in vas navdihnem nad nekaterimi meni zanimivimi točkami. Naj omenim še to, da je bil Dubrovnik moja prva postojanka v sklopu letošnjega poletnega roadtripa, o katerem si več lahko preberete tukaj (klik). Torej, če vas zanima kje prenočiti, kaj si ogledati in kje dobro jesti vas vabim k nadaljnjem branju.

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Dubrovnik is much more than just a city of a popular tv series Game of Thrones. To be honest, Dubrovnik wasn't really at the top of my travel bucket list because I was told that the city is very crowded with tourists during the summer and that the prices in restaurants are very high. Both of these are true but despite that, I think that Dubrovnik is a must-see city when visiting Croatia for those who love seaside towns and cities with a rich history. 

I wrote this travel guide to help you plan your trip to Dubrovnik and to inspire you with some of my favourite sightseeing points. I should also mention that Dubrovnik was the first stop as part of this years summer road trip - you can read all about it hereSo if you are interested in where to stay, what to see and where to eat well, I invite you to continue reading.


The iconic boat ride from Dubrovnik old port to Lokrum - a view of Dubrovnik


KJE PRENOČITI / WHERE TO STAY

Cene nastanitev so v Dubrovniku res visoke. Jaz sem planirala potovanje že 2 meseca vnaprej, a vseeno nisem našla ugodne nastanitve. Dubrovnik je kar veliko mesto, ki je razdeljeno na 4 dele: Gruž, Lapad, Babin Kuk in stari grad Dubrovnik. Če želite biti blizu vseh večjih znamenitosti in samem centru potem je za vas najboljša izbira stari del mesta. Če želite imeti "the best of both worlds" - torej imeti na dosegu center/znamenitosti in pa lepe plaže vam priporočam Babin Kuk in Lapad. Gruž bi vam odsvetovala, ker je to ena velika marina, kjer je dnevno parkiranih kar nekaj križark in ladij, zato tam ni plaž, prav tako pa je daleč do mesta. Najin apartma je bil lociran v Babinem Kuku, kar je odlična lokacija za miren oddih izven mestne gneče, prav tako pa je z mestnim avtobusom približno 15 minut vožnje do samega centra (več o prevozih si preberite v nadaljevanju). Vsekakor vam priporočam Dream Apartment Solitudo, ki sem ga rezervirala preko
spletne strani Booking. Vse o nastanitvi si preberite tukaj (klik). Meni je bila najbolj všeč mirna lokacija, opremljenost apartmaja, kuhinja, zasebna mini terasa, udobje in prijaznost gostiteljice.

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Accommodation prices in Dubrovnik are really high. I had planned the trip 2 months in advance, but still did not find affordable accommodation. Dubrovnik is quite a big city, which is divided into 4 parts: Gruž, Lapad, Babin Kuk and the old city of Dubrovnik. If you want to be close to all the major sights and the city centre, then the old city is the best choice for you. If you want to have the "best of both worlds" - closeness of the centre/sights and beautiful beaches I recommend Babin Kuk and Lapad. Gruž is not the best choice, because there are not any beached there and it is also very far from the city centre. Our apartment was located in Babin Kuk, which is a great location for a quiet getaway from the city crowds and is also a 15-minute city bus ride to the centre (read more about transports below). I definitely recommend Dream Apartment Solitudo which I booked through the Booking.com website. You can read all about this accommodation here (click). 


Dream apartment Solitudo Dubrovnik - patio 


KAKO PO DUBROVNIKU: Z AVTOM, JAVNIM PREVOZOM, PEŠ / HOW TO GET AROUND IN DUBROVNIK: BY CAR, PUBLIC TRANSPORT OR WALKING

Dubrovnik ima zelo dobro urejen javni prevoz. Če pridete v Dubrovnik z avtom ga parkirajte pred nastanitvijo in ga tam tudi pustite, ker so cene parkirišč blizu centra absurdne, gužva pa stresna. Po drugi strani pa vas mestni avtobus iz kateregakoli predela mesta pripelje v sam center za 24 kun - 3,24 eur (povratna karta). Priporočam, da karto kupite v trafiki, ker je na avtobusu malo dražja. Če jo že kupite na avtobusu pa imejte s seboj drobiž. Jaz sem se iz predela Babin Kuk vozila z linijo 6 in 2a. Za ostale povezave kliknite tukaj (klik). Vsi ti avtobusi vas pripeljejo direktno do centra in vas odložijo neposredno pred vhodom v mesto - pred mestnimi vrati (Pile). Peš vam iz Babinega Kuka in Lapada odsvetujem, ker je hoja zelo dolga.

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The city has a very well organized public transport. I suggest you not to use a car in Dubrovnik because the parking prices near the centre are very high. A local bus from any part of the city will take you directly to the centre and leave you in front of the city gate (Pile). A return ticket from Babin Kuk to the centre is 24 kuna (3,24 eur). If you go from Babin Kuk take line 6 or 2a. For the timetables of all the lines click here


In the background, you can see the famous Franjo Tuđman bridge and Gruž port


KDAJ JE NAJBOLJŠI ČAS ZA OBISK DUBROVNIKA / WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT DUBROVNIK

Jaz sem bila tam v sredini avgusta in takrat je bila vročina neznosna. Resnično vam odsvetujem obisk Dubrovnika od junija-avgusta, ker je takrat največja gužva, temperature pa peklenske. Idealen čas za ogled mesta in znamenitosti je od septembra-oktobra in od aprila-junija.

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I was there in mid-August and the heat was unbearable at the time. I really advise you to not visit Dubrovnik from June-August, because the city is very crowded during these months and the temperatures are very high. The perfect time to see the city and its sights is from September-October and from April-June.

KAJ SI OGLEDATI / WHAT TO SEE

Večina turistov si pride v Dubrovnik ogledati samo tiste generične znamenitosti in snemalne lokacije serije Game of Thrones, kar je škoda, ker se ob tem zanemari vsa zgodovina, ki jo mesto ponuja. Če ste fani serije in želite videti kje so serijo snemali potem si bookirajte kakšen GOT tour preko spleta, drugače pa sem jaz za vas sestavila svoj seznam znamenitosti, ki si jih je vredno ogledati.

Najslavnejša znamenitosti so Dubrovačke gradske zidine, utrdba oz. obzidje, ki obkroža stari del mesta. To je prva stvar, ki bi si jo moral ogledati vsak turist. Karta je zelo draga - 25 eur na osebo, a je po mojem mnenju vredna. Za umirjeno hojo po obzidju si rezervirajte vsaj 2 uri, zato vam svetujem, da ne pridete tja tik pred zaprtjem (odpiralni čas je odvisen od sezone). Če se odločite obiskati Dubrovnik poleti potem priporočam, da si obzidje ogledate po 7. uri, ker je takrat manjša vročina. Na obzidju je več stojnic s spominki in kavarn, kjer se lahko ustavite, naredite počitek in popijete kakšno kavico. Iz obzidja boste videli praktično cel stari del mesta, ki je res čudovit. Prav tako se vidijo različni stolpi (Minčeta, Bokar, Lovrijenac in ostali), krasna obala in otok Lokrum v daljavi.  Meni je bilo najbolj zanimivo to, da je del obzidja speljan kar zraven hiš tamkajšnjih prebivalcev, tako da dejansko vidiš kaj ljudje počnejo na svojih terasah.

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Most tourists visit Dubrovnik only to see the shooting locations of the Game of Thrones TV series, which in my opinion is a shame because the historic site of Dubrovnik is much more important than Game of Thrones.  If you are a fan of the GOT and want to see where the tv show was filmed then book a Dubrovnik GOT tour online, but if you want to see the most important historic sights I have put together a list of must-see attractions.

The first attraction that every tourist should see is the Dubrovnik City Walls, the fortress surrounding the old part of town. The ticket for the tour is very expensive - 25 euros per person, but in my opinion, it is worth it. I suggest that you book a visit at least 2 hours before closing because this way you will have plenty of time for a relaxing walk around the walls (opening hours depend on the season). If you decide to visit Dubrovnik in the summer then I recommend that you go and see the walls after 7 pm because the heat is more bearable. There are several souvenir stands and cafes on the wall, where you can stop, take a break and have some coffee. The views from the wall are amazing. You can see the whole old part of the city, which is really beautiful. You can also see the various towers (Minčeta, Bokar, Lovrijenac and others), the beautiful coast and the island of Lokrum in the distance. The most interesting thing to me was that by walking on the walls you actually walk right past the homes of the local people, so you could actually see what people are doing on their terraces. 

Dubrovnik city walls

Bokar tower - a part od Dubrovnik city walls 

View from city walls

 

Game of Thrones filming location at Dubrovnik city walls




Ogled utrdbe Lovrijenac je vključen v karto od obzidja, tako da v bistvu za 25 eur vidite dve veliki znemnitosti. Sama utrdba se meni ni zdela nič kaj posebnega, tako da ne bi ravno kupila karto za njen ogled posebej, ampak ker je bila vključena v ceno sem se jo vseeno odločila pogledati. Drugače pa bi jo verjetno kar preskočila. Za obisk si vzemite vsaj 30 min. Lovrijenac ne stoji znotraj obzidja, ampak je lociran čisto zase, v nasprotni smeri od mestnih vrat. Zraven Lovrijenca pa imate majhno 

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A tour of the Lovrijenac fortress is included in the price of the ticket for the Dubrovnik walls, so you can see two big sights for 25 euros. The fortress itself didn't seem like anything special to me, so I wouldn't exactly buy a ticket to see it separately, but since it was included in the price, I decided to see it anyway. For the tour, I recommend taking at least 30 minutes. The Lovrijenac does not stand inside the walls but is located entirely on its own, in the opposite direction to the city gate. 


Fort Lovrijenac - Game of Thrones filming location 

Game of Thrones filming location - just under the Lovrijenac fortress


Najbolj me je navdušil izlet na otok Lokrum, ki je del Dubrovnika in je v njegovi neposredni bližini, 10 min vožnje z ladjico iz dubrovniškega starega pristanišča. Ime otoka izvira iz latinske besede acrumen, ki pomeni kislo sadje, saj je bil nekoč otok znan po agrumih. Cena povratne karte je 20 eur na osebo, na otoku ste lahko cel dan in počnete karkoli vam srce poželi, saj ogled ni voden. Jaz sem bila na otoku približno 4 ure, lahko pa bi bila več. Otoček ni prav zelo majhen in na njemu lahko vidite marsikaj. Ladjica vozi poleti na vsake pol ure. Na Lokrumu si morate ogledati Benediktinski samostan, mrtvo morje, plaže, pave, ki se sprehajajo po otoku, se sprehoditi do trdnjave Royal (najvišji vrh otoka s katerega imate krasen pogled na otok) in pojesti nekaj dobrega v restavraciji pod drevesi - Rajski vrt. Na otočku je muzej v katerem si lahko preberete vse v otoku, si ogledate snemalne lokacije serije in se slikate na slavnem prestolu. Več o otoku si preberite tukaj.

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I was most impressed with the excursion to Lokrum Island, which is part of Dubrovnik and it is just a 10-minute boat ride from Dubrovnik's old harbour. The name of the island is derived from the Latin word acrumen, which means sour fruit, as it used to be known for its citrus fruits. The return ticket is 20 euros per person. You can spend the whole day on the island and do whatever your heart desires since the tour is not guided. I was on the island for about 4 hours, but If I had more time I would have stayed longer. The island is not that small but you can see a lot of it in a short period of time. The boat runs in the summer every half hour. At Lokrum you have to: see the Benedictine monastery and the Dead Sea, visit the beaches, take a photo of the local peacocks strolling around the island, hike to  Royal Fort (the highest peak of the island) and eat something good in the best restaurant on the island - Rajski vrt (meaning paradise garden). On the island is a museum where you can read everything about the Lokrum and the filming locations of GOT and also take a picture while sitting on a famous throne. Read more about the island here


Lokrum Benedictine monastery - Game of Thrones filming location






Sprehod po Stradunu, glavni široki ulici, ki se začne takoj pri vhodu v mesto je nekaj kar vsak turisti najprej naredi. Ta ulica je vedno najbolj oblegena s turisti, v neposredni bližini pa se nehajajo mestna vrata, vhod v mesto, Frančiškanski samostan, Onorfijeva fontana in mnogo kavarnic, restavracij in trgovin.

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The first thing that all the tourists do is to take a walk along Stradun, the main wide street in Dubrovnik, which begins immediately at the entrance to the city. This street is always very crowded with tourists. Close to Stradun is the city gate, the Franciscan monastery, the Onorfi Fountain and many cafes, restaurants and shops. 

A view of the main street in Dubrovnik - Stradun from city walls



Najboljši nasvet, ki vam ga lahko dam je, da se izgubite se po ozkih ulicah Dubrovnika. Tako boste odkrili veliko zanimivih stavb, kavarn, restavracij, galerij, trgovinic in še marsikaj. Vredno si je ogledati tudi staro mestno pristanišče, slavnostne stopnice iz serije GOT z imenom Walk of Shame in pa jutranjo tržnico z lokalnimi dobrotami na trgu Plaza Del Mercado - Tržište.

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The best advice I can give you is to get lost in the narrow streets of Dubrovnik. You will discover many interesting buildings, cafes, restaurants, galleries, shops and much more. You should also take a look of Dubrovnik old port, famous stairs from GOT called the Walk of Shame and morning market with many local goods on the Plaza Del Mercado - Tržište.


Right above the "Walk of shame"


Dubrovnik old port

Dubrovnik old port






KJE JESTI / WHERE TO EAT

Čeprav nisem veliko jedla v mestu, so tukaj restavracije in kavarne, v katerih sem bila in so mi bile všeč:

  • Restaurant Orsan (Lapad) - restavracija v marini, s krasnim ambientom in okusno hrano. 
  • Gradska kavana Arsenal (center mesta) - najbolj znana mestna kavarna, kjer sem poskusila zelo okusno pomarančno kortisto. Zelo lepo je sedi na zunanji terasi v središču mesta in uživati v dobri kavi. 
  • Rajski vrt (Lokrum) je restavracija z zelo okusno hrano na otoku Lokrum. Poskusila sem lazanjo in njoke s špinačo in oboje je bilo zelo okusno. 
  • Salvatore je kavarna na mestnem obzidju, kjer sem se ustavila za kratek počitek. Tukaj sem pila najboljši korenčkov sok v živlenju. Cene so tukaj zelo visoke, ampak je pogled na morje tako lep.
  • Peppino's je najboljši sladoled v mestu. Jaz sem vzela premium limono in to je zagotovo eden bolj okusnih sladoledov kar sem jih kdaj probala.

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Although I didn't eat much in the city, here are the restaurants and cafes I've been to and liked:

  • Restaurant Orsan (Lapad) - restaurant in the Lapad marina with great ambience and delicious food
  • Gradska Kavana Arsenal Restaurant and Bar (city centre) - Tée city's most famous café, where I tried a very delicious orange cake. The location of this café is amazing because in the summer you can sit outside on the terrace in the city centre and enjoy some good coffee while watching people passing by. 
  • Restaurant Rajski vrt (Lokrum island) is a restaurant offering delicious food on Lokrum Island. I tried the lasagna and spinach gnocchi and both dishes were delicious. 
  • Salvatore restaurant (Dubrovnik walls) is a café on the city walls, where I stopped for a short break due to very high summer temperatures. There I tried the best carrot juice in my life. Prices are very high here, but the view of the coast is so beautiful and worth the short stop.
  • Peppino's is the best ice cream in town. I chose a premium lemon and it's definitely one of the most delicious ice creams I've ever tasted.

Orsan restaurant

Gradska kavana Arsenal

Restaurant Rajski vrt Lokrum

Salvatore restaurant Dubrovnik city walls 

Peppino's ice cream 


If you want to see more of my summer road trip, check out my Instagram posts and stories which are saved under highlights named Dubrovnik. 

Hvala za branje / Thank you for reading ☀ 


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